what is an
orgone skull? |
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It looks mostly like
any other skull, except it is made of resin and not crystal or gemstone,
as we have become accustomed to think of The
Skulls. But it
doesn't end there. Apart from the resin, it contains orgone
energy - as discovered by Wilhelm Reich. The trick is how to get the
orgone energy into the skull, which is what I am working to discover
right now. At first I thought the resin was mixed with water, and I had
read that the way to energise water is to put some soil in it (allotment
soil ideal) and stir it, let the muck settle, then pour off the
energised water. However now it seems you do not mix the resin with
water, but with catalyst (activator). So we shall see, |
point of
making an orgone skull |
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Apart from containing
earth energy, and this being my particular piece of earth on this
planet, for over 20 years, an orgone skull can be programmed to do
whatever the owner wants - if the owner is also the creator, how
much more powerful. |
where to
get an orgone skull if you do not want to make one |
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Website tools
for enlightenment run by Robert Oliveri has some lovely ones. Robert is a very gifted man, I would buy one of his skulls like a shot,
had I the available readies, but then I thought how much more fun to
make my own. |
what will
it involve? |
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A lot of mess and mud -
lovely! A lot of researching, sourcing products, learning about
processes I know nothing about. This part of the project has
already begun, and as always I am amazed at how helpful people are - I
have had such detailed emails and am learning a lot already. It is also
good when you are told two different methods or processes by two
different people, you can see there are more ways than one to skin a
cat, and some ways appeal more than others - sometimes you can see
between the two that there might be a third way. It's good to exercise
choice. |
Step 1 -
first build your model |
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The first step is the
original creation which I am going to do in clay. As I already have a
picture in my head of how this skull will look - primitive,
other-worldly in that it does not resemble any skull on this planet - I
only have to begin. At present I am seeing only the top of the head, but
I know that when I start the rest will become clear.
I am going to dig up
clay from the allotment for my first effort - which may also be my last
- depends on what I think of it when done. Most likely I will redo it
with some red clay from here.
Christine Hesketh has been really helpful. I think a skull made from
professional clay will probably dry quicker and better, and make a mould
better. |
Step 2 -
make a latex mould |
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This is the best
solution to mould-making I have seen so far, bearing in mind I have only
seen this one. You get the latex here
- you can either paint it on, or dip the skull in it (latter sounds
preferable, if I can afford enough latex. See Robert Oliveri's
comment on silicone |
Step 3 - create a plaster support cast |
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Naturally, being
latex, the mould will be a bit like a rubber glove, it will sag and
stretch when the resin is poured in. So after checking that the mould is
okay, you have to reinsert the skull (I imagine that like a rubber glove
the mould will stretch) and then you have to more or less encase the
whole thing in plaster so that the mould will be held to its shape (bor
- ring!). There are detailed instructions how to do this in a way
that you can open the cast in two haves after wards, you also make
notches to show where the two halves match up (like dressmaking). Quite
frankly, this sounds the trickiest part of the process, and where things
could go desperately wrong. |
Step 4 -
mix and pour the resin |
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Now you buy resin
- you can get this on ebay, or from the latex
place. Here are some
instructions how to do the layers and embed the natural objects - I want
to use leaves and flowers, dont know how good they will look, ie will
they crumple, it is essential to use crystals and metals - preferably
the metals in spirals |
Instructions
from Environmental
Technology Inc |
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Multiple
Layer Casting (Embedding):
Embedding objects in plastic resin involves making
a casting of 2 or more layers with embedments sandwiched between the
layers. Generally, you work in reverse when embedding objects. The first
layer you pour becomes the top or face of your casting. Pour first layer
of catalyzed resin into mould. Allow to gel until firm enough to support
the embedments (20-30 minutes). Catalyze second batch of resin and
stir. To avoid trapping air, dip embedments into the catalyzed resin;
set in place face down on the first gelled layer. Pour balance of
catalyzed resin over embedments. If embedments are not yet covered or
if you want a coloured background, pour a third clear or coloured layer
after the second layer has gelled. Embedments can be placed in several
levels to create a "floating" appearance. After final layer
has been poured, allow casting to harden completely before removing from
the mould |
Finally |
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Allow it to set, remove
latex - maybe you can use this again if you want another copy - you
should also be able to use the plaster cast?? |
What I
dont know |
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how to get the
orgone energy into the skull if not using water. |
Results of correspondence |
Robert Oliveri - on suitable materials for making moulds |
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I would suggest
using silicone rtv. as opposed to latex. A silicone mould will last for
much longer than a latex.To do a silicone mould you have to make a
wooden box a little larger than the mould since the material is
expensive you don't want to waste too much. |
Robert Oliveri - on the organic nature of resin |
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Resin is made
from petroleum which is made from fossils hence it is organic in nature |
Christine Hesketh - on using garden clay |
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You can dig up
clay from the ground, you would need to take out the stones and other
matter and then you have to break it down and put it into a bucket and
cover it with water - the clay then works down to a mush and you then
have to turn this out onto something porous ie plaster and leave to
harden slightly - it then needs to kneaded to bring it together
into a solid lump. The clay is then ready to use. |
Christine Hesketh - on how much clay to order |
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It depends on
whether the skull is solid, or you have hollowed it out, either way you
would have to buy a bag which is 12.5kg and this would be enough if the
skull was solid. If you are casting from it then you wouldn't need to
fire it anyway. If you do fire it then the skull would have to be
hollow or it would explode in the kiln! Delivery/carriage/postage would
depend on where you live in the country - either way we will ship it to
you for the same amount it costs us as we don't add on to the price.
We also re-use packaging as we like to recycle. Clay naturally air dries
and it would be quite hard once dry, extremities would be vulnerable
though. You could coat it in a layer of varnish. |
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